Tarkarli, Maharashtra
Ranked as one of the best beaches in the world by The Sunday Times, London, Tarkarli, is perfect for a relaxed weekend getaway with its emerald waters and never-ending white sand beaches
State: Maharashtra
Distance: 521 km south of Mumbai
When to go: Avoid the monsoons. Few, if any, boats will be willing to take you to Sindhudurg Fort in the rains. Winter is the best time to visit
Getting there
Air: Nearest airport: Dabolim, Goa (100 km/3 hrs).
Rail: Nearest railhead: Kudal (35 km/1 hr).
Road: Turn off NH17 at Kasal, 14 km ahead of Kankavli. Take SH118 to Malvan, 33 km away. Tarkarli is 7 km further down the Malvan Coast.
The Sunday Times, London, has called it one of the best beaches in the world. You will agree when you drop anchor at the Tarkarli Beach, a long stretch of white sand that seems to run forever. The water is emerald-green, and when the sun’s rays fall at the right angle, you can see all the way down to the seabed. A line of casuarinas hides it from the outside world, and when you walk past the trees and out on to the beach’s powder sands, you will feel this is heaven.
From the little town of Malvan, it’s a beautiful drive down shady, winding paths, past tamarind and coconut trees, to Tarkarli. Further out on Kurte Island, Sindhudurg, the imposing sea bastion built by Shivaji, floats like a battleship. You will see children race down the talcum beach and shove each other into the warm, lapping waves of the sea, as, at your feet, crabs draw spiral designs in the sand. It’s such pure bliss that you understand why an international cruise liner like the Hebridean Spirit has a place for Tarkarli on its itinerary – this beach is truly world-class.
Things to see and do
At Tarkarli, you can spend days just relaxing in your hammock, listening to the call of the sea. It also places where you can rediscover the child in you – trawl the beach for tiny shells or build sandcastles.
Tarkarli is safe to wade in but swimming is not recommended because of strong undercurrents. There are no lifeguards on the beach.
Tarkarli Beach
Apart from lazing on the beach, which extends for 8 km along the coast, you can go for walks, play in the sand, or simply take in the beautiful surrounds. If you are visiting in November-December, then take a walk on the beach at midnight. You may be rewarded with the rare sight of turtles laying eggs on the sand.
Malvan
This little Konkan town has a bustling jetty, a tangle of boats, a laid-back air and Man-galore-tiled homes, from where the scent of wood-smoke and aroma of fish curry dominate. It is rustic at heart but at the same time striving to be something more than a village, with its restaurants and hotels and an odd Internet café. To explore, hire a bicycle from one of the small cycle shops here and drift down its shaded streets. You are most likely to witness a cricket match in full swing on a ground in the shade of banyans, a little church, and a peepal tree standing in the middle of the town, a veritable landmark. Beyond it lie the jetty and pier. A stone’s throw away is the fish market. Fishing boats also double as ferries, and leave for Sindhudurg Fort from a tourist pier here. They give you 1 hr to explore the imposing island citadel.
Chiwla Beach
Located just 2 km from the bus stand, the Chiwla Beach in Malvan is a well-kept secret. A semi-circular stretch of soft white sand, just over 1 km long, this beach is a travel writer’s dream. The sea is as azure as the sky and the vista almost prompts you into striking a yogic pose. At one end of Chiwla are boats moored at the docks and further down, the Sarjekot Island. At the other end is Malvan’s Rock Garden. In the last days of December, up to New Year, the Chiwla Festival is held in Malvan, with song and dance performances.
Deobaug Village
A little fishing village attached by the hip to Tarkarli, Deobaug enjoys the privilege of being strategically placed between the sea and the Karli river. Take a leisurely walk through the village, when dappled sunlight filters in through the palms. You’ll pass women sorting dried fish outside their homes, boys practising with their cricket bats, and men sitting by the fisheries factory, waiting for it to open. Deobaug is also great for birdwatchers: warblers, white egrets, cuckoos, Indian pond herons, laughing thrush, arrow-tailed swallows and yellow-beaked mynahs have all been spotted here.
Where to eat
Most restaurants specialise in seafood such as Malvani surmai, prawns, karli and pomfret. At the top of many people’s list is Chaitanya, close to the bus stand and the market. Also check out Arun Bhojnalaya, near the peepal tree at the centre of town, and the House of Bamboo near the main market.
Krishnayee is a little restaurant under the trees attached to the Nayak House, close to Nath Pai Sevagan. They serve excellent vade sagote (vada made with multi-grains, served with pieces of chicken in thick gravy) and fresh ghavne (a dosa-like pancake made of rice), with chutney and syrup made from coconut juice and jaggery, and hot tea. Hotel Ruchira in the market area is an economical option. They serve a great Malvani fish thali. At Tarkarli, you could dine at MTDC’s Sagar Darshan, at Hotel Gajanan’s thatched shack, or at the Mithbhavkar residence.
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