Palghar, Maharashtra
One of the most attractive weekend getaways from Mumbai, Palghar, with its pristine palm-dotted beaches and ancient forts is a must-visit
State: Maharashtra
Distance: 122 km N of Mumbai
When to go: Best in the rains and during September to March. October is hot and should be avoided
Getting there
Rail: Palghar Station
Road: Take NH8 to Mastan Naka in Manor via Shirsad. Take a left off the highway for Palghar. Bus The bus connections between Mumbai and Palghar are not very good
If you chat up locals in Palghar, they will tell you that the town’s visitors largely comprise factory workers or those visiting the court premises here. Nevertheless, as you head towards the industrial town, high rises gently give way to low rolling hills and later in the day, you can see children take out their bicycles for long rides, and shared auto-rickshaws – locally called dum-dums – roar as they cart people to and from the station, and the resident fishermen bring in their catch for the day. It’s certainly true that there is very little about the main town that would endear itself to travellers, but the beaches of Palghar remain a big draw. Here, palm trees and casuarinas front the waves, and ancient forts steeped with history and adventure seem to hold secrets as old as the sea. Around the beaches are villages where the locals grow bananas and chikoos when they are not out fishing in the sea. If it’s a quaint but heady combination of tranquility, sea and history that you are looking for, this relatively unknown slice of North Konkan is just about perfect.
Things to see and do
Palghar is an ideal weekend getaway for Mumbaikars and indeed for anyone who doesn’t expect a beach holiday where parasailing and candle-lit dinners by the sea are the order of the day. Three days are ideal to explore Palghar as well as the surrounding beaches.
Shirgaon Beach
About 11 km from town, Shirgaon has a fort to its credit, and one that offers an impressive view of the Arabian Sea as well of Shirgaon village. A climb up its walls, however, can be precarious. The fort was erected in the 18th century, has underground tunnels, hideouts and a cannon to its credit. All this, however, lies under much neglect and undergrowth. You can relax at the beach, where you will find children playing cricket on weekends. This fairly long beach is mostly frequented by fisherfolk. There are various routes from the main road leading to the sandy shore, and since the fishermen’s dwellings are en route, it’s easy to lose your way while heading back. However, people are quite helpful, and you can even convince one of them to take you for a boat ride. Once every year, according to the Islamic calendar, a fair is held in February at a dargah that is on the way to Shirgaon Beach. Qawwalis are sung at the melatill the wee hours of the morning.
Satpati Beach
The beach at Satpati (13 km from town), a sleepy hamlet with many palm trees, is close to Shirgaon. It’s the least crowded of all the beaches in Palghar. There isn’t much to do here except watch the fishermen’s boats with their identification flags float by, and visit the Shri Ram Temple, established in 1881.
Kelva Beach
About 13 km from the main town, this beach is by far the most scenic in Palghar. Here, the black sands end where the surutrees begin. The sea is not as clean as it used to be once but thanks to the fact that it stretches for 7 km, it has a large number of tea stalls and cold drink vendors. There is a fort towards one end and the Kelva Dam 10 km away. Low tide is the best time to visit the fort, though it’s now neglected and full of under-growth. The long climb up to the walls of the fort is certainly not for the faint-hearted. Close to the beach is the Sheetila Devi Mandir. Make this your base to catch the sunset and sunrise.
Where to eat
Suruchi Restaurant at Sai Residency has a good selection of Malvani, Gujarati and Chinese dishes and is open round the clock. Ya Niwant Beach Resort’s speciality is seafood.
Situated at Paanch Batti, Manisha Dairy Farm is a landmark in its own right, at least as far as the locals are concerned. For INR 50, you can have a tall glass of saffron or mango lassi laden with dry fruits. Srikhand is available in delicious if slightly exotic flavours such as black grape, apple and anjeer(fig), and has its own cult following.
Around Palghar
Devkop (12 km)
This destination is completely off the radar in fact, even the residents of nearby Palghar seem to be unaware of its existence. Devkop is a lovely surprise hidden in the hills, frequented mostly by photographers and picnickers during the monsoon. A 10-min trek along a fairly easy path dotted by straw huts on one side and fields on the other takes you to a tiny hill, beyond which lies the Devkop Lake. The lake is surrounded by low hills on three sides, casting stunning reflections on a clear day. Look out for a small board to your left on the Palghar-Manor Road, and thereon ask locals for directions. Swimming is not allowed and drowning accidents have happened here in the past. Opt to take a special auto from the station which takes you directly there instead of the shared auto which drops you off at the main road from where you have to walk.
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